Blather

The back story

I was attending a conference in New Orleans and had booked flights that would give me 3 days free after the conference.

I knew my friend Joe would be there as well, and at some point one of us must have said “let’s go for a ride”.

So we did.

I researched motorcycle rental and learned that I could rent a Harley Davidson, or a Harley Davidson, or a Harley Davidson. Lots of choice. I chose a sportster from Eagle Rider as it is the lightest (at 565lbs / 256kg) and I’m allowed to ride it on my restricted licence.

The final route

View Riding Louisiana & Mississippi in a larger map

Day 1: 200mi

Day 1 started by picking up the bike at Eagle Rider. It all went  smoothly until I was about to pull out of the driveway and  discovered that the clutch lever was so heavy I could only just pull it in. That made me panic a bit, but after a few tries I thought I’d be able to manage.

Off we went on a little tour of New Orleans, around City Park and  onto the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, which is the longest  continuous bridge over water (23.83 miles). It was basically a straight ride, which gave me a chance to settle into the bike,       figure out where to sit (I started riding like I ride my naked  bike – up close to the tank – then remembered to sit back in cruise position) and to learn how to change gears.

(this isn’t my photo – I was too busy riding)

We spent the morning riding through pretty farming country with  nice roads. The first stop was at Franklington for the first of many re-fuels, where I learned the routine of going inside to leave cash, coming out and fuelling, going in to pick up change.

Then Northwards, again through farming country for the rest of the morning.

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We had decided to keep an eye out for BBQ for lunch & were coming up to McComb around lunch time. The first place we stopped was closed on Monday, so we went looking for an alternative. We found a good looking candidate, but couldn’t figure out where to park. Ahah! It was a drive through place. Luckily, while we were discussing what to do, they came out to chat and were happy to feed us. They even found us a place to sit out the back. And the BBQ was fantastic. We rode off happy

Our next destination was Natchez. We again went through farming country for a while, then entered the Homochitto National Forest. Here we found some proper motorcycling roads – pretty, tree-lined and lots and lots of lovely open sweepers.

We reached Natchez around 4.30 and discussed whether to push on to try to make it to Vicksburg. I was tired from riding a strange bike and fighting with the clutch so we decided to stay there. We popped into the visitor centre, where I learned a little about  the history of the place and picked up some souvenirs.

One of the best things (for me) about staying in Natchez was that we could stay right on the Mississippi – we crossed the Natchez-Vidalia Bridge (I love crossing bridges) and sat and ate dinner while watching the barges go up and down the Mississippi (mmmmm…catfish).

Day 2: 280mi

Day 2 started as clear and sunny as day 1. We were ready early and left by 7am. Today’s plan was to go via the Natchez Trace Parkway for a while, stopping at some of the main sights on the way, head to the Windsor Ruins (which were recommended to us the day before) and head to Vicksburg.

The Natchez Trace Parkway was an Indian trail that became a major route for traders returning from floating products down the Mississippi (they could float them down, but couldn’t get back up the river). Now it’s a historic road, closed to commercial vehicles.

And boy it is pretty.

One of the key sights in the southern end of the Trace is the Emerald Mound. This is a ceremonial mound that was used between 1200 and 1730 CE. It was built by hand – buckets of soil were moved from the bottom to the top, one by one. My photos don’t show how cool it is.

After leaving there, we headed north along the Natchez Trace for a while, stopping for a moment to take some video of me riding on the Harley, which was a most excellent idea of Joe’s (I’ll eventually add the video here).

We turned onto the road to the Windsor ruins and again rode through pretty farming country. We spotted the driveway to go to the ruins, but it was gravel. Now, if I was on my BMW, I wouldn’t have even thought twice about gravel. But on a rental, with a horrible clutch, and fairly heavy, I really didn’t want to ride on gravel. Oh well, we missed something interesting, but the road north from there was lovely motorcycling road – sweeping curve after sweeping curve.

At the end of that loveliness, we hit the highway and headed further north to Vicksburg. We stopped at the Vicksburg National Military Park, where we could have ridden around, but again, with an anti-socially loud bike that was horrible at slow speeds, we decided not to. We did look at the exhibit and gift shop though. Then headed downtown to find lunch.

Hmmmm…downtown Vicksburg. Not sure what’s happening here, but everything was closed. Yes, *everything*. Yelp told us about 2 BBQ places and a burger place – all closed. The tradesmen across the road told us about a BBQ place around the corner that was open. In Australia, you can tell a good chinese restaurant by the number of Chinese folks eating there. In the South, you can tell a good BBQ by the number of locals eating there. We were in luck! Great burgers & home-made lemonade.

Then north again, this time along the edge of the Mississippi, vaguely heading to Rolling Fork. This part of the ride had two memorable moments: riding along top of a levee

and figuring out how to get down this gravel hill to detour some roadworks (Joe rode my bike down – I wasn’t confident enough to do it)

From Rolling Fork, which is near Muddy Waters’ birthplace, we hit the interstate and chewed up miles until we found a place to sleep in Jackson.

Day 3: 220 mi

The morning of day 3 was when we needed to split up. I needed to head back to New Orleans and catch a flight. Joe needed to head to Georgia to get the new bike serviced and ultimately to go home.

After 2 days of following, I was on my own, on the wrong side of the road, with just a GPS to guide me. I set it for New Orleans and hit the interstate. When I ride by myself at home, I like to do a long, single stretch first up to get into the rhythm and knock off the first part of the trip. So I did the same here. 110mi straight, before needing to stop for fuel. Absolutely nothing of interest to say for this stretch of the trip…

The GPS said I would arrive in New Orleans around 10am, which was way too early. So I stopped and reset it to avoid the interstate. What a good idea that was. I headed somewhat southwest, along various highways. Again, just following pretty country roads. Highway 41 had a pretty rotten surface, and I hoped this wasn’t going to continue for too much longer. Highway 41 turned into highway 42, which I thought was pretty cool, as sometime around then, in Australian time, I was turning from 41 to 42 (i.e. this was my birthday if I was in Australia). Highway 42 was going along nicely, until I saw a ‘Roadworks, 7mi’ sign. So, usually roadworks mean stopping occasionally, riding on loose gravel, crawling along at slow speed. Not the highway 42 roadworks – I swear, someone knew it was my 42nd birthday and put down brand new hotmix for 7mi. Then they added curves for the whole length and the master of camber figured out exactly what angle each curve should have. And as a bonus, they got rid of all the traffic (except one rubbish truck I had to stop behind and couldn’t see around). It was just a delight to ride. No photos as it was just too lovely to stop.

42 turned into 22 turned into 16 turned into the Airport Highway and all too soon I was crawling my way through New Orleans traffic getting closer and closer to the end of my trip.

Up a couple of incredibly dodgy laneways, and I was back where it started. 757mi from the start.

Overall

This was just a fantastic trip. The weather was brilliant, roads were lovely and food was fantastic. Joe is a great riding companion and I’m looking forward to riding again with him.

Riding a Harley was an interesting experience. It sat nicely on the road and cornered well – the sportster really is great at riding sweepers. The heavy clutch did ruin it a lot for me – with a usable clutch (or larger hands), I would have enjoyed this bike. Riding feet-first was fine, though I don’t think I’m going to buy a cruiser any time soon. I’ll just keep borrowing them

I can’t think of a better way to spend a few spare days in Mississippi. I’d like to go back and ride some more of the Natchez Trace and have more time to poke around historical sites. And eat more southern food!

I just spent most of the last 5 days on my butt, riding my motorbike, along some of south-east Australia’s very best riding roads.

It started with a friend saying ‘I’m riding to Tassie – anyone welcome’. I locked it away in my calendar, and am very glad I did, as I know that otherwise I would have just continued to work.

I had no plan except to follow him to Melbourne, visit my dad in Seymour, and come home over 2-3 days. Somehow.

I wasn’t sure where I’d stay, so I thought it would be handy to take the camping gear. Here’s the bike, all ready to go:

The whole trip

Here’s the whole ride – the destinations are lunches and stopping points:

View Two Snowies in a larger map

Day 1: Canberra – Cann River – Bairnsdale

We left nice and early, with three other friends (I’d say who, but I don’t know if they’re happy telling their story on the internet, so won’t). First run was to Cooma, where 2 of the group peeled off in a different direction.

Second run was straight to Bombala, then Cann River. The Bombala – Cann River run is lovely. Lots of long sweepers through farming country. It was an easy lunch run, and I’m sure we’ll do it again.

From Cann River we headed West, figuring we’d stop when we were ready. We made it to Bairnsdale by 3.30 or so, and this seemed like a good enough time to stop, especially as we could see clouds coming in. We found a cheap hotel, unpacked and went off to drinks and dinner at the Terminus Hotel, which may just get my award for best bistro ever.

Day 2: Bairnsdale – Pakenham – Seymour

After rain overnight, there were still big fat clouds around in the morning. We ate a fat-boy breakfast while waiting to see whether we’d need to wear wet weather gear (I did anyway, but I’m OK with being a bag of sweat at the end of the day). The storm passed and we set off. Had a mostly good run, but it started raining just before Traralgon. Our pal on the Triumph left us here to gradually head back to Canberra and we wandered off to find passable coffee and wait for the rain to pass.

Rain mostly gone and we went straight up the Princes Highway. For a highway, this was a pretty fun ride – mile crunching, but not awful…

We had lunch in Pakenham, where the highlight was being able to park on the footpath!!!!!

And with that, the end of our joint ride ended. It was fantastic riding together – much more fun than this fast description tells.

I set the GPS for Seymour, and asked it to go via Healesville. This was really my first time trusting the GPS to find me a road, and it didn’t disappoint – pretty country roads and lovely corners.

Day 3: Seymour – Wangaratta – Omeo

After a great evening with my dad, where I learned that it is not strange to highlight a map with the roads I’ve ridden, or to alphabetise spices and gravy, I repacked and set off.

The plan for today was to get to Omeo, following as many of the awesome riding roads mentioned in the Motorcycle Atlas. So up to Euroa via the old Hume highway, then off to Mansfield for coffee.

I quickly learned that this sign means ‘Woot!! Great road ahead’

After coffee, I was plodding along (not really, I was going through some quite lovely twisty road) and I saw a sign to Powers Lookout Reserve. This is why I have an adventure bike – I don’t need to worry that a great lookout is along a dirt road. And just look at this view!!!

Lunch in Wangarratta, then off to Bright, and hopefully Omeo.

Now, I have to tell you, my geography is pretty crap. And I don’t ski, so I don’t really know where people ski. I saw a line on the map that went from Bright to Omeo and figured it was along the foothills of the Victorian snowfields.

Ummmm….I was wrong.

This was so beautiful it made me cry:

And finally into Mt Hotham village:

So, if you haven’t guessed, that road went right across the top of the Victorian Alps. No wonder the Motorcycle Atlas, and the lady at the service station said ‘Over the top’. The most beautiful landscape I’ve ever seen.

And finally to Omeo, which is a fairly quiet sort of place. Here’s my hotel room (they must have a lot of riders as they had timber so your side-stand doesn’t sink – that was a nice touch):

Day 4: Omeo – Tallangatta – Jindabyne

I decided to start heading home via the Omeo highway. I knew there was some gravel, but wasn’t worried about it. After all, I have an adventure bike (have you seen her – she really is quite lovely).

The highway out of Omeo rises very quickly – lots of steep inclines, lots of switchbacks. No corner speed markings, no railings. No photos either as there was nowhere I felt safe to stop. But again, just lovely.

I was surprised when the highway turned to single lane country track:

But not surprised when I found the gravel. And really, quite good gravel for all 16km. No scary bits, no corrugations.

And then some lovely, lovely curves (like, the best I’ve ridden so far).

And then some more gravel, running next to a lovely river.

And just when I was thinking I wish I had the convenience of male anatomy:

And then along a fast country road to Tallangatta for a pie and chocolate milkshake. That 146km took almost 4 hours, but it was worth absolutely every minute. I’d go back just so I can go up the tar and down it again. Bloody brilliant road.

But no, the day still wasn’t done. I still had to get to Jindabyne – I really wanted to camp on the lake as it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. Getting there involved more stunning alpine road, this time in NSW, from Khancoban to Thredbo via Kosciuszko National Park. Even on its own this is a stunning run, but my head was a bit full of wonderfulness so I didn’t stop a lot to photograph.

Past Thredbo and onto the awesome sweepers, by which time I was so tired I flopped along the road, didn’t sweep at all, and was passed by a tiny Hyundai. Need to do again…

And here I am, camped on Lake Jindbyne. After the most buttery & garlicky chicken kiev at the pub over the road I fell sound asleep to the sound of a christmas beetle trying to turn over, and woke to ducks quacking and baby galahs complaining of desperate hunger. It was wonderful.

Day 5: Home

I didn’t want to just come up the highway, so decided to go via Adaminiby and Bobeyan Rd. I’ve ridden pillion on this road and although it is mostly gravel, I knew it was pretty smooth.

How wrong I was. I forgot that it has been raining pretty much constantly since I last pillioned on it.

Of course, I didn’t stop to take photos of the slippery tyre tracks, enormous pot-holes filled with water or gravel channels. I did photograph this lovely smooth bit.

And this bit that looks smooth, but there were two enormous puddles just beyond the grate.

I should have kept this impromptu side-stand support. I could have done with it for the whole trip.

And then the gravel was finished. And as hard as it was, I missed it immediately & wanted more.

Then along Tharwa Drive, into Canberra and home. And out of 1855km, the worst was the last 20km going through the city. Stupid, blind, ignorant drivers.

A summary

• Km: 1855 (4.5 days)
• Km on gravel: 90
• Km of boring: About 200 (to Cooma, a little bit on the Hume)
• Hours in the saddle: About 26
• Big ‘Oh shit’ moments: 2 (both in the gravel on Bobeyan Rd)
• Little ‘Oh shit’ moments: Only a couple (one beside Honeysuckle Ck Rd – I was reading the sign and forgot to corner!)
• Hairpin bends: About 30
• Hairpin bends I liked: About 30 (before this ride they terrified me)
• Kangaroos in my way: 3
• Sheep in my way: 8
• 4-wheel drives on my side of the road: 4
• 4-wheel drives completely on their own side of the road: lots
• Apollo campers on my side of the road: 3
• Apollo campers completely on their own side of the road: 0
• Riders nodded to: 6 (hardly anyone out)
• Beers: 11
• Chocolate milkshakes: 3 (what’s with that??)
• Pies: 2
• Awesome sights: bazillions

Lessons & thoughts:

• I LOVE riding gravel roads
• Being ignorant/stupid results in the best outcomes (like duh, the road goes across the top of the mountain, and duh, it’s been raining for 6 months and the gravel may be crap)
• Having a GPS is handy, but not essential. And very funny when you head off on a random road to a lookout that ends in a cliff – poor thing nearly had kittens trying to recalculate
• It is not at all odd to highlight your map to remember where you’ve been (or maybe it is)
• Photos just don’t capture pure wonderfulness – most of mine look like trees, but were really about OMG!!
• Camping is much better than hotel rooms, doubly so when there is a pub in walking distance
• My bike is just so bloody brilliant. I don’t anthropomorphise stuff, but today I honestly wished I could give her a gift to say thank you for looking after me. Instead I bought a new sponge for $1 and washed her very carefully. Tomorrow is polish and degrease/regrease.
• I think the Australian definition of irony is that the best set of twisties I’ve ever ridden is in the middle of nowhere, between two stretches of gravel.

Today’s plan was to head home!

Last December I drove from Canberra to Kandos via Taralga and Oberon. I remembered the road between Taralga and Oberon was particularly nice, and the motorcycle atlas supported my memory. I’ve been wanting to ride this road ever since I bought a bike.

I left Bathurst early – around 8am. It was cold, but the township was sunny. 10 minutes out of town was another story entirely – relatively thick fog. I persisted for a while but with only a tinted visor, riding an unknown road was not much fun. I pulled over to the side and read a book until the fog lifted a little.

The second attempt wasn’t much better. I think I went a km before it was foggy again, and the road was far too nice to miss. I pulled into a rest area and wished I had a thermos of tea.

Half an hour later I tried again. Success!!

The road between Bathurst and Oberon is nice, but the road out of Oberon is better. It’s a mix of long sweeping curves and lovely straights, with gorgeous views of hills and cows and wattle trees.

I was in the groove of the curves and learning how to move with the bike and lean in and out of the corners. It was lovely. The road is smooth blacktop and in great condition.

All of a sudden there was a sign that trucks should use compression braking (or not use it – you know what I mean). Yikes! The next section of road was a very steep decline (maybe 15 degrees) with patchy pavement, broken road, horrid curves and a hairpin bend that was in such bad condition I went around in first gear. And a car up my tail (I pulled over and waved them past early, which was a great idea). I managed it slowly, but it was not at all fun.

Across the causeway over Abercrombie River…

Up the other side was a completely different story. It was twisty and steep, but the surface was much better. It was lots of fun (of course, this might just be because I’m getting better at riding too). From there to Taralga was more long curves; and Taralga to Goulburn is mostly pretty straight.

I stopped off at mum’s for lunch and refulled. I could have taken the road to Bungendore, but decided just to zip up the highway.

Home!!!!

All up I did about 900km over the three days. I learned a lot and am riding *much* better than when I left. I don’t think anyone will tell me to relax my back again

I also learned that I could do it by myself and that I like this type of riding, which was part of the reason for the ride…

The map of the final route:

View Larger Map

Day 2!!!!

Over a number of beers last night I decided to head towards Bathurst then home on Thursday. Initially I was going to go mostly up the Olympic highway but then read my motorcycle atlas which told me that there was a better piece of road via Boorowa and Wyangala Dam. Ahah! A plan.

The first stretch was between Temora and Young. Straight road with very little of interest. At least it was an easy start to the day.

I got to Young around 10am and found good coffee in a cute cafe. That was a better start.

From there I headed to Boorowa. At the moment this road is patch upon patch upon pothole. I got lots of practice avoiding holes and the worst of the surface. Its a pretty road though, through standard NSW farming country.

I stopped in Boorowa to take a photo of the clock and clean bugs, as you do.

Rugby road pout of Boorowa was as patchy as the road coming in. After a little while I turned off to Frogmore, noting the signs that said there was a bridge closed and a detour. I figured the detour would be marked well enough that I shouldn’t get lost…

This road was a bit more interesting. Still plenty of patches, but some nice long corners and plenty of pretty paddock and trees. I had a great run though for about 40mins before I came to the ‘detour’ around a flooded out bridge.

GRAVEL ROAD!! Oh no. I’ve never ridden on gravel. I had a choice – I could go backward and go via cowra, or give the gravel a go. Given I own an *adventure bike* I decided to have an adventure. The start of the road was covered in water, but beyond that looked ok. I got around the water and rode on.

Have I ever told you how much I love my bike? She’s such a ripper – I pointed her vaguely in the direction I wanted to go, relaxed my hold on the bars, relaxed my back and rode. It was awesome!!! I took it slowly, mostly in 2nd, & 1st around tight corners and it was easy as. The only time I worried was when I got to a bridge over a creek that was just great bit gravel rocks (like, fist sized). I eased into this, let the bike have her head and got stuck. Slightly. I just needed to give it a bit more juice to pull out of the gravel.

I stopped on the other side to take photos and was happily dicking around photographing gravel and the creek when I heard a car coming. I hadn’t expected anyone so hadn’t pulled off the road very far. I got to my bike, lifted it up straight and there was just enough room for them to squeeze past. Big waves all round

The gravel was only about another hundred meters and I was back on the road feeling pretty jazzed about my mad adventure riding skillz!!

More patchy, curvy road right through until Wyangala Dam. I stopped before the dam wall to take more photos, have a drink, eat chocolate and just stare at the water.

Riding over the dam was really, really cool. The road is wide and straight and I felt like I was riding across the top of the world. And there was no one else anywhere around.

The road from the dam to Woodstock is absolutely brilliant. It’s in incredibly good condition and is 8km of nice curves. This is the first set of real curves I’ve ever tackled and I’m so glad I lost my virginity here. I am most definitely going to do this again.

I was hoping for food in Woodstock (it was about 1pm by now) but all I could see was a pub with meals fri-sun, pizza anytime. That wasn’t appealing so I continued.

Out to the olympic highway, which is quite a lovely highway. No luck with food in Lyndhurst, or Carcoar (which is quite pretty) so I stopped in Blayney, ate some fruit and nuts and drank water. Refilled, and debugged. I decided I was past lunch and that would do.

Blarney to Bathurst was also fairly ordinary. Highway, trucks, overtaking lanes (them, not me) and a section of roadworks going down a 10 deg incline at 20km/hr.

Got to the edge of Bathurst and saw the sign to Mount Panorama.

Right now you need to know I don’t really follow motor sport. I know the Bathurst race exists, but that’s all. I HAD NO IDEA YOU COULD JUST RIDE THE TRACK. I think I almost cried with excitement. Got a photo and did 2 laps going one way, then 2 laps in reverse. Grinned the whole way around the track. Grinned for about an hour afterward.

Drove into Bathurst town, found a motel where I could park my bike outside my room, next to a sports club, for $80/night.

Anyone seeing me walk around Bathurst this afternoon would have wondered why I was grinning like a loon. I suspect this was one of my most favourite days EVER.

[Day 3]

I have all of this week off, so thought I’d go for a ride. Head-cold meant I couldn’t leave yesterday and change of plans by the kiddo I have to be back Thursday, but that still leaves me 3 full days to ride.

I had no plans except to go somewhere that I felt comfortable riding to. Given I’ve only been riding 4 months and have only had my BMW 3 weeks, I decided I’m probably not ready for the coast roads. I initially thought Jindabyne but friends reminded me that it’s probably still icy and full of skiers…

So I headed inland, vaguely planning to get to Junee.

Left around 10:30 after packing, fueling, putting air in tyres etc. I headed to Gundaroo via Sutton Rd, then Gunning, where I stopped to have an apple, having left the house without eating morning tea. In the whole day’s riding, the road between Gundaroo and gunning was the worst – not sure whether it was just the surface or me not quite relaxed yet.

From Gunning I went down the Hume to Yass where I stopped to clean bugs off my visor, then through to Harden. Actually I missed Harden, but stopped for lunch in Murrumburrah (& cleaned my visor).

Then west to Wallendbeen, where I cleaned my visor and pulled out my map. Changed plans and decided to head to Temora instead of Junee.

I went west for a little while following a truck all the way, so stopped at Stockinbingal to clean my visor and wait for the truck to get away.

Then to Temora where I found a decent hotel where I can park my bike right outside my room, with an ex-services club across the street. Yay!

It was a great run. No mistakes, no scares and no sore butt. I’m getting the hang of letting my bike take the corners and relaxing into them (the first thing all experienced riders usually say to me is ‘relax your back!’). I even had a revelation in the middle of a roundabout – you know if you drop your shoulders instead of tensing up, you just flow around. Duh!

Tomorrow’s plan is to head north-east…

[Day 2]